Big Time, Small Time

Since the wristwatch’s invention in the 20th century, it has been bogged down by rules and restrictions. Traditionally considered
a man’s accessory, this functional accoutrement has obviously crossed the gender gap, though the many watch rules still govern
size, proportion, and material. Flying the flag for fashion freedom, like the Hermès Jelly Kelly, four brands in particular are breaking protocol, creating watches out of plastic and ceramic, and sporting dials
the size of headlights. And while these products are not new, the news is in their explosion to macro trends this summer.

First off is the American brand Toywatch, and what better accessory to have than a watch that looks like a shiny hunk of hard candy. Holding fast to its motto, "Time
Is Plastic," the Crystal series, with its clear plastic bracelet band, is a classic look. The band is elegant and delicate
in appearance, but won’t shatter if dropped. It also won’t break the bank: most Toywatches retail for around $200. With such
a good price, we’re spotting them in droves. From Bondi Beach to Ipanema, Bangkok to New York, consumers are loving the cheeky
Rolex-type knockoff, available at a respectable price point. Besides the Crystal, notable new watches for s/s ‘07 include
the Skull Collection, which features combos like a black pavé dial with a white pavé skull and crossbones. But Toywatch’s
spring highlight is the Ceramic Collection, featuring bands and bezels in white, black, and blue ceramic with either white
or blue mother-of-pearl dials. These beauties retain durability but up the ante in luxury.

Another watch brand keeping up with the Jelly Kelly is Swatch. Known to understand fashion on a budget, Swatch combines Swiss craftsmanship and a universal sense of humor with its colorful
patterns, designs, and rubbery bands. New for 2007 are five playful themes like Salt and Salsa, which pays homage to the Caribbean
spirit with bright shades and patterns ranging from peacocks, iguanas, and butterflies to various flora. Artful Innocence
takes its cue from childhood whimsy with cheeky renderings of ladybugs and teacups. On the more rugged side is the Men, Naturally!
series of rougher styles and complicated-looking dials for the "techy" MacGyver set.

For those who prefer the all-out Kelly of watches, there are two brands garnering attention for their technically exquisite
designs and faces that scoff at any notion of proportion. Interestingly, both brands are steeped in military history. For
U-Boat, the journey began in 1942, when designs were made to produce watches for the Italian Navy’s U-boat officers. Their dials
range from around 45-55 millimeters and all are crafted from precious metals beautifully merged with rubber and steel looks.
Collections like Flightdeck and Thousands of Feet highlight U-Boat’s naval utility: all collections are on average five-to-ten
ATM (atmospheres) waterproof; the Night Vision edition has visibility enhancement using replaceable red glass and yellow hands
and numerals; and the Thousands of Feet series has a dodecagonal-shaped case with a bezel that extends out like the inside
view of a submarine portal. All hands on deck!

And then there’s Panerai — one of the most sought-after luxury watches in the world. By 1900, Panerai was the official supplier to the Royal Italian
Navy for tools such as wrist compasses and various underwater instruments. One trademark of these beauties is the hand-wound
mechanical movement and the use of the latest mechanics and technical tools to create an eight-day power reserve. A collaboration
with Ferrari (another maker of luxury accessories) yielded the Granturismo and Scuderia collections, inspired by the lines
of Ferrari’s aerodynamic cars, complete with red and yellow accents on the dials and inside the bands. Somewhat of a boy’s
club, the yearly special editions of these watches can only be found at Panerai flagships — the only American location is
in Los Angeles. But, if you’re in the market for a big chunk of exquisite bling, the official distributor in New York is settled
on upper Fifth Avenue, naturally.
-Justin Conner

Photos:
Toywatch

2-3 Swatch

U-Boat
Panerai