What’s hot right now?
I’m obsessed with street artist and recent TED prize winner JR, as he covers our city with his “Wrinkles of the City” works. Taking things further, MOCA will debut Art In The Streets next month, surveying graffiti and street art. Pop-up restaurants/bars are also huge. Paul Sevigny and Andre Saraiva are doing a pop bar for six months at the former Cinespace called Paul & Andre. Golden State Café recently hosted a pop-up pie event with Crust. And everyone is clamoring to get a seat at these two recently opened restaurants: Playa, by chef/owner John Sedlar, and Son Of A Gun, by the owners of Animal.

What was your favorite show from the a/w ‘11 collections?
Fendi really stood out with its elegant mix of cloth coats, boldly colored baggy tights and sweet mary janes. There was also a quiet and reduced look to Celine and 3.1 Phillip Lim, which screamed urban uniform. Celine’s pointy-toe loafers and turtlenecks with full leg trousers had a subtle sexiness, while Lim’s silk utility coat and jumpsuits were flirty and functional. The editors at Mondette are also a little crazy over Suno. Designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty have the wildest prints that somehow work perfectly together and each season they seem to just get better.

What are the most essential pieces that women should have for spring?
When it comes to spring, your closet should be stocked with wide leg
pants. Think long and lean with a seductive ’70s style a la Marc Jacobs and Derek Lam. The white dress is a trend we recently covered for a minimalist and crisp style. The longer the hem, the better. And I would also invest in some cute flatforms. Local designer Kristen Lee (and co-owner of fab fashion boutique TenOverSix) created a funky pair for Vena Cava’s spring collection.

What’s the most stylish part of Los Angeles fashion?
Los Angeles fashion has an understated, effortless coolness about it, with a dash of rock ‘n roll. Local designers like Raquel Allegra, Cerre, Them Atelier, and George Esquivel are creating exciting new looks that go beyond the laid back casual style LA is known for. Plus, you’ll find innovators like Tanya Aguiñiga and Gabriela Artigas blending art and fashion, while Geren Ford, Jenni Kayne and Wren design the perfect party dress.

Despite a reputation for being slow to adopt technology, the fashion industry’s digital initiatives are becoming increasingly common. Girl about town Lauren Santo Domingo and former Gilt Noir executive Aslaug Magnusdottir are set to launch Moda Operandi, a members-only site that lets consumers order clothing within 48 hours of designers’ shows. The site’s initial launch partners will include Thakoon, Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler for this season. Over at eBay, the world’s largest online marketplace, the mega site continues its collaboration with Derek Lam by asking shoppers to vote on their favorite items from the new collection via its new crowdsourcing platforms.

In the online editorial sector, POST, the first independent, multimedia publication specifically for the iPad will host a celebration at Soho House, while Tumblr, which is fast becoming the fashionista’s blogging tool of choice, will fly in 24 bloggers to attend Oscar de la Renta’s show. If that’s not enough, Nina Garcia’s investment in Fashism further illustrates the ways in which technology is becoming fashion’s new best friend.

And perhaps the most news-worthy technological initiative of the season is Shopstyle’s essential new phone app, which allows you to follow every moment of NYFW via your mobile. A collaboration between Shopstyle and Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, this must-have app delivers full coverage of a/w ‘11 thanks to its mobile-optimized site, featuring up-to-the-minute runway news, photos, Facebook, Twitter and website profiles along with exclusive event coverage, maps and location details.

Speaking of collaborations, Erin Fetherston, who has been working at Juicy Couture as guest designer, will translate her whimsical aesthetic into a new contemporary range called Erin. And while girls with a penchant for flirty wares may rejoice, Opening Ceremony’s latest womenswear-only collaboration with MM6 Maison Margiela is sure to have their hipper counterparts sated. Meanwhile, Richard Chai, who debuted an eight-piece teaser collection for Original Penguin, expands the offerings into a full line. And Christopher Raeburn, the British designer with an ingenious namesake collection of reclaimed military fabrics, lends his stylishly sustainable talent to Swiss brand Victorinox.

One of the main things we look forward to each season are the new entrants to the city’s fashion fray. Of particular interest this season is Canadian-Angeleno Stacey Clark, who debuts her fall collection for Odilon at New York Fashion Week with a presentation on February 14th. Named one of Women’s Wear Daily’s “12 new designers to watch around the globe,” Clark began soaking up the fashion junket as an equestrian competitor at the tender age of five, but her latest collection is inspired by Greek goddess Persephone’s metamorphosis from “a young, naïve girl into the womanly, unwilling queen of the underworld.”

Elsewhere, Ann Sofie Back, who has worked as head designer for Cheap Monday, comes to New York for the first time to show her minimally conceptual wares at a by-appointment only showing at Goethe Institute, which will also feature Emmanuelle, a new womenswear line by Thakoon alum Thomas Chen. Meanwhile, Sofia Sizzi, who has held posts at Gucci and Calvin Klein, is launching Giulietta, a womenswear line that promises to balance conservatism and sexiness. Dominic Louis, a line by Louis Mairone that’s a favorite at OAK, launches dark, romantic wares that are cleverly gender neutral. And Co, a new line of knitwear essentials from Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern, an LA-based duo with artsy film backgrounds, offers an introductory teaser of its upcoming wares with a beautiful video starring Elodie Bouchez.

For something decidedly different, surfer and artist Tin Ojeda will host a much-buzzed small exhibition. This Argentina native’s trendsetting tees are one-of-a-kind and hand-dyed in an array of pigments that pay homage to the classic old school period of surfing. Made exclusively from his very own garage in Montauk, Ojeda has recently been picked up by both Barneys and Dover Street, and is a growing trend among celebrities and various artists.

First up is Lynne Hiriak for Cardigan who I had the pleasure of talking with about her knitwear collection for the those classic fashion items.  After stinting for the likes of Michael Kors and Derek Lam, Hiriak started Cardigan in 2006 to sate her love of knitwear while silmultaneously redefining the category.  I sat down with Hiriak to share a bit about the creative threads that weave the Cardigan collection together.

JCR:  Define your design aesthetic?

LH:   Cardigan is rooted in American sportswear with a European twist. I love Le Coq Sportif, Lacoste and Superga. There is something so charming and sublime about the way Europeans appropriate American sportswear. I’m a collector and I love timeless items like moccasins, clogs, tuxedo shirts, striped men’s shirts, leather sandals… and cardigans of course. Please don’t ask me how many cardigans I have. The line is about taking those archetypal items that every woman needs in her wardrobe and updating them, making them even more relevant and pushing the boundaries of one limitless item.

JCR:  What/who inspires you creatively?

LH:  I’m hugely influenced by the countries I’ve traveled to. I find inspiration in the obvious essence of each country’s identity. For example, I totally appropriate French stripe patterns from French maritime culture. My friends are world travelers as well, so we exchange experiences and ideas. We love to brainstorm over a glass of wine and dream about how to make the world and our lives more beautiful. I also look to classic fashion icons like Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, who offer a colorful history and were true masters of inventing classics and then reinventing them.

JCR:  How do you envision the Cardigan line evolving in the future?

LH:  Of course it will be all about cardigans and other sweater products! It’s what I do best and what I love the most. Imagine a world of cardigans filled with socks,leggings,gloves, scarves,hats, pillows,bags, shoes,shorts, sequins, stars,polka dots,anchors, all striped, all color blocked, all graphic and fun. All the things I love, and all the things that are in my world.

This interview was conducted by Shane Ballard

Silver Versaille Sequin Cardi, Marielle Scarf and Gigi Gloves all from Cardigan by Lynne Hiriak.
Click on thumbnail to enlarge images.
All images © Shane Ballard 2010. All rights reserved

With bright colors seen at many collections, the makeup message was one of inspiring simplicity. At Diane Von Furstenberg, James Kiliardos punctuated the clean complexions of his models with a beautiful fuchsia lip that was inspired by Warhol’s portrait of the label’s namesake designer. Diane Kendal elongated and extended eyes at Jason Wu with abstract colors by utilizing bright hues of purple, green and blue, but softened eyelids with soft vibrant tones of coral at at Carolina Herrera.

Spring ’11s retro-inspired looks were also amazingly fresh and contemporary. Francois Nars for Marc Jacobs created a beautiful “flapper-meets-glam-rock” look, while Petros Petrohelios for M.A.C. created a very fragile ’70s disco doll with soft pink lids and thick flirty lashes at Halston. For Derek Lam, Tom Pecheux created a fresh updated twist on ’60s inspired eyes with orange eyeliner, whereas Charlotte Tilbury was more inspired by Elizabeth Taylor for Victoria Beckham, covering lids in bright shades of purple that were complemented with sharp black eyeliner.

Alexander Wang led the pack with a collection of airy garments that billowed down the runway with a lilting ease. His masterfully simple use of drapery and volume translated into overlapping layers, loose embellishments and the occasional use of effective tiers on busts and shoulders. Models were adorned with shimmery face and body makeup that accentuated the otherwise matte knits, feathery cotton and occasional silk, giving an overall feeling of crisp simplicity.

Preen also gave into the allure of white—albeit with somewhat more variety. Creamy ivories and pale taupes were subtly contrasted against stark, starched hospital hues and sheer fabrics in a surprising range of anti-colors. With its usual dexterity, the label balanced the minimalistic aesthetic with superb tailoring that flirted with inventive techniques such as pleating and layering.

Rad Hourani used white as a source of contrast among his architectural shirts and jackets as well as with geometric paneling, making for a sharp overall effect. Wes Gordon, by comparison, used the contrast effect as a subtle accent to pale shades of yellow, camel and gray.

Thakoon, meanwhile, emphasized the color in a variety of items—from a twill jacket to a shift with chiffon sleeves—and Wayne flirted with its optical illusion potential in a series of asymmetrical shirts and dresses. Derek Lam rounded out the bunch with a few knockout items, such as a double-breasted, belted coat and a slit-sleeved short dress.

White-hot indeed.

While animal-friendly faux fur alternatives have increasingly appeared in more collections, the real deal was all over the recent runways. Derek Lam knit fox into a black and white cardigan, Halston’s Marios Schwab embellished the sleeves of a sweater dress and Marc Jacobs used it on the lapels of a see-thru trench. Fresh off his Swiss Textiles Award win, Alexander Wang experimented with a number of different fabrics, backing a zip-away leather jacket and criss-crossing lapels with mink. Many of these looks will show up at H&M and Forever 21 too, albeit in decidedly less expensive manifestations. The heretofore fur-free designer’s unfortunate use of pelts in his show makes sense given recent supported from Saga, but thankfully some of it won’t be produced for stores.

Leather was the most common go-to fabric for fitted, asymmetrical jackets. It was also used in more novel ways, as in the case of men’s leggings at both Maria Cornejo and Rad Hourani. To wit, Joseph Altuzarra held high-slit pencil skirts together with straps of leather, lending the pieces a vaguely S&M vibe. Threeasfour, meanwhile, paired it with wool to create a collared, almost hood-like coat and Ohne Titel’s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams coupled it with silk to fashion a chic, patchwork drawstring skirt. In addition to singular pieces, expect to see leather—both real and faux—used as embellishment or in conjunction with fabrics like wool, cashmere and twill.

Velvet’s sartorial connotations ran the gamut—little girl party dress, “festive” formal wear, hippie-chic topper—but there’s little doubt we can escape it for fall. Elise Øverland showed a velvet menswear-inspired suit and tuxedo wrap dress, while Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs fashioned a lace and velvet cap-sleeved dress for their semi-eponymous label. In keeping with his naughty schoolgirl vibe, Peter Jensen’s take was admittedly cheekier (tartan bloomers), while Zac Posen’s conjured thoughts of chi-chi late ’70s holiday parties.

Cutouts continue as a reining trend. When strategically placed they imbue basic black with some much-needed sex appeal, but not-so-gym-toned flesh might be better kept under wraps in any of the season’s other trends. Max Azria’s designs for Hervé Léger have never been a go-to for the faint of heart, so it’s little surprise that his sheer-paneled cutouts came courtesy of some killer mini-dresses. Speaking of itty bitty, Halston incorporated the technique into Grecian-style party gowns, featuring artfully exposed flesh and miles of leg. Preen offered what was perhaps the most wearable take in bandeau bra topped silk and cashmere dresses that revealed the areas above and below the décolletage—and leaving just enough to the imagination.

Years of working for others inspired the duo to begin the process of developing their own line. As industry insiders, they had a significant head start but were nonetheless determined to take their time with a project that quickly became a labor of love. And with free reign over every design element down to the very last detail, the line is the ultimate in luxury. Lush leather is used in each piece along with a focus on high shine buckles and adornments, all of which are informed by their work in jewelry design. The decision to introduce techniques associated with clothing such as draping and pleating is what really set the collection apart from the pack, however.

Launched during fashion week in October 2007, JT took the bold decision to exhibit outside of the tradeshow circuit: A 1952 English double-decker red bus was transformed into an impossible to miss showroom and unsurprisingly brought the label a great deal of attention.

Their current spring/summer ‘09 offering, Reef, is a move towards lightness and air. Soft textured, tactile leathers are used in a more natural palette of seaside tones, coral, stone grays and aquamarine. Hardware remains highly polished but subtle with shapes still very much inspired by couture cutting and silhouettes, while luxury exotic skins such as eel, crocodile and lizard are combined for a limited edition clutch of just 18 pieces. Despite economic cutbacks, exclusivity and luxury continue to reign supreme at Studio Maggio.

—Lena Dystant