While animal-friendly faux fur alternatives have increasingly appeared in more collections, the real deal was all over the recent runways. Derek Lam knit fox into a black and white cardigan, Halston’s Marios Schwab embellished the sleeves of a sweater dress and Marc Jacobs used it on the lapels of a see-thru trench. Fresh off his Swiss Textiles Award win, Alexander Wang experimented with a number of different fabrics, backing a zip-away leather jacket and criss-crossing lapels with mink. Many of these looks will show up at H&M and Forever 21 too, albeit in decidedly less expensive manifestations. The heretofore fur-free designer’s unfortunate use of pelts in his show makes sense given recent supported from Saga, but thankfully some of it won’t be produced for stores.

Leather was the most common go-to fabric for fitted, asymmetrical jackets. It was also used in more novel ways, as in the case of men’s leggings at both Maria Cornejo and Rad Hourani. To wit, Joseph Altuzarra held high-slit pencil skirts together with straps of leather, lending the pieces a vaguely S&M vibe. Threeasfour, meanwhile, paired it with wool to create a collared, almost hood-like coat and Ohne Titel’s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams coupled it with silk to fashion a chic, patchwork drawstring skirt. In addition to singular pieces, expect to see leather—both real and faux—used as embellishment or in conjunction with fabrics like wool, cashmere and twill.

Velvet’s sartorial connotations ran the gamut—little girl party dress, “festive” formal wear, hippie-chic topper—but there’s little doubt we can escape it for fall. Elise Øverland showed a velvet menswear-inspired suit and tuxedo wrap dress, while Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs fashioned a lace and velvet cap-sleeved dress for their semi-eponymous label. In keeping with his naughty schoolgirl vibe, Peter Jensen’s take was admittedly cheekier (tartan bloomers), while Zac Posen’s conjured thoughts of chi-chi late ’70s holiday parties.

Cutouts continue as a reining trend. When strategically placed they imbue basic black with some much-needed sex appeal, but not-so-gym-toned flesh might be better kept under wraps in any of the season’s other trends. Max Azria’s designs for Hervé Léger have never been a go-to for the faint of heart, so it’s little surprise that his sheer-paneled cutouts came courtesy of some killer mini-dresses. Speaking of itty bitty, Halston incorporated the technique into Grecian-style party gowns, featuring artfully exposed flesh and miles of leg. Preen offered what was perhaps the most wearable take in bandeau bra topped silk and cashmere dresses that revealed the areas above and below the décolletage—and leaving just enough to the imagination.

Juan Carlos Obando
When Marisa Tomei was making her dress selection for the Vanity Fair party this year, she chose a colorblock jersey number from newcomer Juan Carlos Obando. The Vogue/CFDA new darling is showing his “The Imaginary Forces” collection at Milk Studios tonight, comprised of exclusively handmade dresses, and is sure to pack a punch with Voguettes and top tier buyers lining the front row. Word is the line is doing gangbuster business at Barneys already this season.

Gerlan
Gerlan hasn’t quite made her splash yet, but it’s only a matter of time for the former print designer to garner wide recognition for her take on streetwear. The designer made her debut last season at Patricia Field’s townhouse, showing ’80s-inspired mini-dresses, printed jeans, backpacks and sweats wrapped up in a strain of Vivienne Westwood buffalo stance and early New York hip-hop. For spring ‘10, she turned to dancehall superstar Patra for cues. Accents to expect are marijuana and fist-bumping prints—oh, and bungee cord in the hair.

Frank Tell
Our recent trip to the well-curated Outfit boutique at The Wynn Hotel turned up names from Narciso Rodriguez to Boudicca. But one surprising label to make the cut of this venerable Las Vegas store is Frank Tell, a young Spanish up-and-comer with a surprisingly sophisticated hand. Past collections have showed intricately crafted structured leather tops and ladylike dresses with unexpected zipper details, showing zero resemblance to brands such as ThreeAsFour and Sue Stemp, where he had previous stints. Tell’s spring ‘10 collection showing, a part of Milk and MAC Cosmetics Fashion Week, takes inspiration from Gore Vidal’s Caligula, Georgia O’Keefe paintings and Wallis Simpson’s Mainbocher dress she wore to marry Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor.

Prabal Gurung
Like something out of a futuristic film noir—a paradox that his designs seem to address directly—Prabal Gurung combines conservativeness with experimental absurdity. After two years with Cynthia Rowley’s design team and five years as the design director at Bill Blass, the industry vet is new to the scene as an independent designer. His elegant fall ‘09 collection made waves in New York City with its keen attention to detail, and he’s a sure bet to cause commotion this season as well.

—Jason Campbell