During a volunteer trip to Kenya, Clements came across a group of creative crafstwomen living in a slum built atop an active garbage dump who converted plastic discards into crotchet material for sturdy bags. Seeing an opportunity to help empower this fledgling business, Clements provided design direction to “construct a collection of bags with a more modern, western world appeal.” The result is a line of eye-catching carry-alls that are available for purchase directly from the individual makers. And, in the tradition of iconic bags and the women they’re named after, each design’s namesake is a woman currently working for the company.

In addition to constituting covetable designs, all materials are made from eco-friendly, renewable or post-consumer goods, and $10 of the profit from each bag sold goes back into the community via an international NGO. This giving-back model has helped community development and sustainability through relocation from the slum, child sponsorship, medical assistance and loan programs.

Learn more about the project directly from Clements here:

Click here to view the embedded video.

What’s hot right now?
Fashion’s latest cycle is really starting to trickle up instead of a one way trickle down effect, and I think that’s exciting. The line that has always separated street style from ready-to-wear is slowly starting to fade. Bloggers, street style, DIY fashion and crowd funding for designers are all influencing and upending the fashion hierarchy. The cross pollination of fashion and art continues—Kathy Grayson’s new gallery The Hole is having its first fashion show and pop-up show during fashion week. It’s no longer about one label, one look, one body or one way, but about diversity and democratizing fashion. There is no longer only one way to be stylish!

What’s the one thing you’d like to change about fashion?
To change the way in which we define beauty—more diversity on the runways, in the magazines, in the campaigns and advertising as well as the women who work in the industry. A day when everyone does not look exactly the same—a cookie cutter-less society. All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is really bringing attention to this issue.

What are you looking forward to in the fall?
I’m excited to see all of the people returning from summer vacation filling up the NYC streets—a feast for my eyes, as my pal Bill C. would say. Nothing beats the excitement, the action, the diversity, the fashion and the sounds of a New York City street in fall. And one of the best places to see it will be at Fashion’s Night Out.

What’s the best style advice can you give a woman?
Nothing is worse than seeing a beautiful stylish woman walking down the street in a pair of heels that she clearly has no idea how to walk in—her awkward, clumsy, goofy strut kills the whole look. Thus my style advice is to never buy shoes that aren’t comfortable, and always take at least one lap around the store to be sure.

While animal-friendly faux fur alternatives have increasingly appeared in more collections, the real deal was all over the recent runways. Derek Lam knit fox into a black and white cardigan, Halston’s Marios Schwab embellished the sleeves of a sweater dress and Marc Jacobs used it on the lapels of a see-thru trench. Fresh off his Swiss Textiles Award win, Alexander Wang experimented with a number of different fabrics, backing a zip-away leather jacket and criss-crossing lapels with mink. Many of these looks will show up at H&M and Forever 21 too, albeit in decidedly less expensive manifestations. The heretofore fur-free designer’s unfortunate use of pelts in his show makes sense given recent supported from Saga, but thankfully some of it won’t be produced for stores.

Leather was the most common go-to fabric for fitted, asymmetrical jackets. It was also used in more novel ways, as in the case of men’s leggings at both Maria Cornejo and Rad Hourani. To wit, Joseph Altuzarra held high-slit pencil skirts together with straps of leather, lending the pieces a vaguely S&M vibe. Threeasfour, meanwhile, paired it with wool to create a collared, almost hood-like coat and Ohne Titel’s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams coupled it with silk to fashion a chic, patchwork drawstring skirt. In addition to singular pieces, expect to see leather—both real and faux—used as embellishment or in conjunction with fabrics like wool, cashmere and twill.

Velvet’s sartorial connotations ran the gamut—little girl party dress, “festive” formal wear, hippie-chic topper—but there’s little doubt we can escape it for fall. Elise Øverland showed a velvet menswear-inspired suit and tuxedo wrap dress, while Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs fashioned a lace and velvet cap-sleeved dress for their semi-eponymous label. In keeping with his naughty schoolgirl vibe, Peter Jensen’s take was admittedly cheekier (tartan bloomers), while Zac Posen’s conjured thoughts of chi-chi late ’70s holiday parties.

Cutouts continue as a reining trend. When strategically placed they imbue basic black with some much-needed sex appeal, but not-so-gym-toned flesh might be better kept under wraps in any of the season’s other trends. Max Azria’s designs for Hervé Léger have never been a go-to for the faint of heart, so it’s little surprise that his sheer-paneled cutouts came courtesy of some killer mini-dresses. Speaking of itty bitty, Halston incorporated the technique into Grecian-style party gowns, featuring artfully exposed flesh and miles of leg. Preen offered what was perhaps the most wearable take in bandeau bra topped silk and cashmere dresses that revealed the areas above and below the décolletage—and leaving just enough to the imagination.

Cesare Paciotti and Simon Collins will unveil their special shoe design collaboration at the former’s boutique (833 Madison Avenue). There’s a screening of David McIntyre’s A Personal Analog Alternative for ZooZoom at Shelly Steffee (34 Gansevoort Street). Go hang out with Steven Alan at his Tribca boutique along with Amanda and Lucia from Coup de Coeur (103 Franklin Street) or pop by the Comptoir des Cotonniers shop (155 Spring Street) for a glass of bubbly and a peak at the a/w ‘09 collection. Things are definitely going to be busy in Soho, where Karen Millen (114 Prince Street) will open its doors for a sneak-peak at the spring/summer ‘10 collection, Mango (561 Broadway) will have a DJ on duty to create an excited shopping atmosphere and Foley + Corinna (114 Stanton Street) keep things shaking. And, of course, help Kirna Zabete ring in its 10th anniversary with exclusive items by the likes of Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez and Thakoon (96 Green Street).

For some serious designer stars, be sure to time your visit at Bergdorf Goodman (5th Avenue and 58th Street) where the likes of Zac Posen, Padma Lakshmi, Isaac Mizrahi, Badgley Mischka and many other big names will be appearing for speaking engagements and parties—and while you’re poking around the midtown hotspots, don’t forget to hit retail castle Barneys. For an arty spin, don’t miss Costume National’s collaborative event with artist Shinique Smith, who will display an eye-popping array of visual delights throughout the Soho store (160 Mercer Street). For some added swank, the W Hotels chain will debuting an exclusive accessories collections at the W Hotels Store (541 Lexington Avenue) and don’t forget to pop by Coach for a look at the autumn/winter ‘09 collection and place your advance order.

Celebrities have also gotten on board with the event. Ashley Olsen twins is on board with New York magazine’s party and supermodel Karolina Kurkova hosts the launch of The Observer Playground Magazine at DKNY (819 Madison Avenue). Amanda Lepore will help launch an exclusive fragrance at Michel Angelo’s Wonderland Beauty Parlor (418 West 13th Street). Even the music world has gotten on board, with All American Reject’s Tyson Ritter and Cobra Starship’s Gabe Soporta and others co-hosting an event at Caravan (2 Great Jones Street).

In our second installment of our New Fashion Empire Builders series, we turn Stateside to focus on Thakoon. Designer Thakoon Panichgul’s namesake label has become increasingly visible in the last year as Michelle Obama, Tilda Swindon and Wendi Murdoch have each worn his frocks to high profile appearances. Panichgul had previously collaborated with Target and Nine West, but unlike the rapid rise of other American labels such as Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen, he has taken a slow boil approach to empire building.In our interview, Panichgul discusses this strategy in addition to revealing his new project launches and views on weathering the current market conditions.

JC Report:  We’re referring to you as someone building an empire, tell us about the ownership structure of your company.

Thakoon Panichgul:  The company is privately owned. We have great support to do what we believe in.

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JCR: Tell us all of the different projects within your fashion kingdom?

TP: We have just launched a shoe collaboration with Giuseppe Zanotti, which is very exciting because I have looked forward to having my own shoe line for quite some time. For Fall 2009, we launched a capsule collection called Thakoon Addition, which allows me to explore new ideas and concepts. I am interested in newer projects that are not rigid or necessarily a part of the standard fashion system.

JCR: You’ve steadily held to your signature aesthetic and held on to the purity of your line, but you’ve lent your design talent to many entities. Do you see that as a key component to the new empire building structure?

TP: Whenever I am designing my own collection or collaborating on another project, I try to stick to my core design aesthetic. It is always important for me to design something that a woman wants to wear and feels comfortable and confident in.

JCR: How do the new emerging empires differ from existing fashion empires?

TP: Young designers are forced to really examine what makes them different and unique in this saturated, competitive market. I really think it is important for emerging designers to go with their gut feelings and stick to what they really believe in. The individual voices are what really count now.

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JCR: Do you have a business role model?

TP: I respect business owners who have gone with their gut instincts regardless of the market’s fluctuation.

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JCR: In which regions are you focusing your business development efforts on, and why?

TP: We initially focused on the American market; however, as the brand has grown, we have shifted the focus to include more of an international perspective. Consumption on a global level cannot be overlooked.

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JCR: How is the economy impacting your business?

TP: Customers are really thinking more about each and every purchase. It is very important in this economy to offer something that is not only an interesting, exciting design, but also a good quality and price.

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JCR: How do you plan to stay the course?

TP: I plan to stick to what I really believe in. Customers are always looking for something special—I will continue to try to offer things that are new and innovative.

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JCR: Are you methodical in your business development planning?

TP: I am not methodical, but common-sensible. With a new market each day comes a new perspective. One advantage of having a small company is that you have daily flexibility in your long term and short term decisions.

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JCR: How is the face of consumption changing?

TP: Consumers are more aware than ever. Sometimes they want everything all at once; my challenge is to offer it.

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JCR: What are the core aesthetic values of your brand that will stay the course as it develops?

TP: I always try to offer styles which are inherently classic with a bit of a twist. My clothes are a bit off-kilter, innovative, yet wearable. They are simple but true.

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JCR: What role does the celebrity factor currently play in exposing your brand?

TP: Small companies and young designers like me oftentimes do not have advertising campaigns. Anytime a celebrity wears one of my garments, it offers a level of exposure that I would not normally have. For instance, Michelle Obama has exposed many people to Thakoon on a global level.

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JCR: Is your idea of building an empire envisioning your brand in existence 50 years from now?

TP: It is important for me to work with a long term vision of where I would like things to be, but also focus on the everyday decisions.

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JCR: How does new media figure into your empire building efforts?

TP: Everything happens so quickly now. Images are transmitted in an instant. We are always searching for ways to get attention in a different, new way that may not have necessarily been done in the past.

This Inteview was conducted by Jason Campbell.