Furla Flirts with New Talents

Many Italian design houses were founded by entrepreneurial families that are staunchly protective of their companies. Historically, this insular mentality has prevented collaborations that could potentially modernize their brands — but things are beginning to change. Through an initiative dubbed "Talent Hub," Bologna-based accessories and footwear company Furla has made an unprecedented move, partnering with four emerging designers — Nicole Brundage, Max Kibardin, Marico, and Courtney Crawford — whose collections will be distributed via Furla's expansive retail network.

The four designers (all of whom have participated in Furla's "Who's on Next" design competition) are lifting the 80-year-old company out of the footwear doldrums and into new market relevance. For Milan-based Texan Nicole Brundage, this means a collection inspired by the '40s pinup girl. The 1996 finalist in Furla's "Who's on Next" competition expands her coyly lascivious aesthetic by re-imagining classic styles with nods to the current zeitgeist. Brundage's sturdy-heeled, fuchsia satin t-strap accented with a diminutive bow at the closure, open-toed umber calfskin Mary Jane, and laminated-gold-leather ballerina flat are sure to make cash registers ring.

While Brundage proudly represents America, Max Kibardin hails from Siberia, and displays a love for marvelously architectural heels. (This handsome designer and fellow finalist in Furla's design competition studied architecture in Moscow). Kibardin's concoctions for Furla have an elegant '60s spirit, but their modern forms and colors are strictly Scandinavian, with the different styles' names inspired by women of the region. Gertrude is a strappy, foot-dividing model in a metallic sea green; Ingebor, fashioned from pink patent leather, is sleek with sharp slits near the toes; and Ulrika is a sexy, futuristic wedge adorned with a series of small chains.

Inspired by their mother's work with loom-based fabrics, sisters Alice and Lisa Ferrari of Milan-based Marico started weaving when they were teenagers. Proving that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, the sisters decided to join the family's textile business after college, spending time in their parents' region of southern Italy and studying the traditional craft of weaving. This past July, the two won raves in the "Who's on Next" competition for their vividly hued bags. The duo continues its artisanal aesthetic for Furla, weaving fabrics into striking geometric patterns and petal-like textures, intricately intertwining materials such as raffia and viscose rayon into seamless, easy-to-carry bags.

Lastly, Footwear News' Vivian Infantino Emerging Talent Award-winner and shoe-design award-winner in "Who's on Next" 2006, New York-based Courtney Crawford debuted his line in Europe a year ago with much fanfare. Since then, the 27-year-old St. Louis, Missouri native has become an Andre Leon Talley protégé, conceived Missoni's spring '07 shoe collection, and was named one of Paper magazine's 50 Most Beautiful People. Though his current line is globally distributed, his fans (including Mariah Carey) will have to wait until the next a/w '08-'09 season for his vertiginous, unabashedly sexy heels for Furla.
-Robert Cordero

Photos:
1-2 Max Kibardin for Furla s/s '08
Nicole Brundage for Furla s/s '08
Marico for Furla s/s '08
The Talent Hub