Lost and Found

Years ago, it was enough for high-end luggage brands to concentrate solely on the trunks and suitcases for which they were best-known. But as the number of luxury-accessory buyers continues to grow, these same brands have spotted an opportunity to capitalize on their key strengths of craftsmanship and elegant detailing, while at the same time expanding their fashion credentials. Some are moving into entirely new markets, from small leather goods to shoes and handbags, while others are sticking to their luggage roots while developing design-led diffusion ranges. We've spotlighted four key brands that are forging new paths for themselves in the fashion world while continuing to be inspired by their rich heritages.

Tanner Krolle
A few issues back, we profiled Manuela Morin, Tanner Krolle's latest creative director, predicting a rosy future for the label. Morin's appointment has already begun to bear fruit. Founded in London in 1856 to create luxury leather trunks designed specifically for travel on the era's new steamships and trains, Tanner Krolle widened its offerings in 1997 to include small leather goods, handbags, and women's shoes, with handbags now comprising 75% of sales. In the first complete collection, for a/w '08, Morin continued to be inspired by Tanner Krolle's heritage as a luggage brand, while introducing modern ideas of exaggerated proportion, mixed material textures, and day-to-day functionality. The Nomad range, in particular, has strong links to luggage lines of the past, with the brand's signature luggage lock used as a closure on all pieces for men and women. Our prediction stands: this label will become one of the major leather goods leaders in the coming seasons.

Goyard
Goyard has been one of the favored luggage brands of elite travelers worldwide for three generations. While its luggage offerings are still handcrafted in the traditional style and remain popular with the international jet set, Goyard has expanded its range over the years to include small leather goods, pet accessories, handbags, and totes for everyday use. The influence of Goyard's rich tradition has not been diluted in its contemporary range, however, with the brand's archive referenced in each new product that is developed. For instance, while new lines are still created in Goyard's time-honored coated jacquard canvas with signature chevron motif, new technologies have allowed for the development of bright colors to appeal to a younger generation of shoppers. Arguably, this is the label leading the luggage renaissance, with an eye on seriously denting Louis Vuitton's market share.

Samsonite
For nearly a century, Samsonite has led the way in practical luggage design, with an emphasis on durability and quality. However, the brand's trademark functionality has come to be combined with fashion in the new Black Label line. Launched in 2004, Samsonite Black Label sought to create luggage and travel accessories rooted in the fashion world, collaborating in the past with designers such as Marc Newson and Matthew Williamson. Most recently, Alexander McQueen teamed up with Samsonite to create his own range of luxury suitcases and accessories inspired by nature, from carry-on bags to beauty cases and travel wallets. Spring has seen several more new Black Label launches, from a re-launch of the iconic '60s Fashionaire range in March to the creation of a bespoke line of travel pieces called Black Label Couture, launching this month.

Bric's
Little-known Bric's is a luggage brand that has been a travel staple for upper-crust Italians for over 50 years. Fine leather goods are an Italian specialty, so with the label's recent acquisition of storied accessories designer Marc Gourmelen as its Creative Director, our attention is piqued. Take a look at the label's archive and be dazzled by fabulous canvas patterns, chic leathers, and innovative shapes that defined the '50s and '60s, previously the period of the label's heyday. Gourmelen, showing us his preview sketches, takes his luxury inspiration from Bric's' serious pastiche of classic Italian design. As is the case with all of these brands, the label is developing modern takes on the luggage set and many smaller leather goods — that's the knockout formula for 21st century re-branding.

With Louis Vuitton conducting $3 billion a year in sales (70% of which is in leather goods), it's not surprising that other luggage brands steeped in history would make a major play for their own slice of the market. This summer shows them champing at their bits.

-Erin Magner