Stella Job

France has Hyères, Italy has ITS, and Switzerland has the Stella Fashion Awards. Barely known outside fashion's inner circle, the Swiss event is fast becoming one of the world's premier sponsorship prizes. Both for concept and criteria, this peculiar occurrence is a burgeoning reality worth investigating.

The Stella Fashion Awards were launched in 2000 by the Swiss Textile Federation as a means to promote the country's lively textile industry by familiarizing young designers with Swiss fabrics, which run the gamut from lace to silk to cotton. Unlike many contests, the competition is exclusively open to up-and-coming designers who have already completed and fully produced at least four collections — it rewards the perfect match of creativity with business acumen. A rotating panel of international counselors short-lists each year's finalists, and the main prize, worth €100,000 (plus €10,000 more to spend on Swiss textiles) is not given out in cash, but in the form of financial advice and coverage of various expenses (press activities, show production, etc.). Over the years, Benoit Missolin, Raf Simons, Haider Ackermann, and Christian Wijnants have all benefited from the handsome sum, and progressed remarkably in their respective careers. It was the Stella Award that allowed Simons to fully express his potential; the Jil Sander appointment ensued as a result. And for Haider Ackermann, the award meant leaving behind financial trouble and starting a new, successful course.

With such premises, expectations were high for the Stella Awards' seventh edition, which took place on an unusually warm mid-November night in the post-industrial setting of Zurich's MAAG Events and Music Hall. According to Diane Pernet, who has been attending the event from the very beginning, "this edition has been the best so far." And indeed, the sextet of finalists was noteworthy. Jonathan Saunders, Doo.Ri Chung, Anne-Valerie Hash, Kim Jones, Kaviar Gauche, and Bruno Pieters all presented brief excerpts from their latest collections in front of an international jury that included Style.com's Laird Borrelli, Altagamma's Arnaldo Bianchini, Harrods Consultant Susanne Tilde-Frater, YOOX.com's Federico Marchetti, and the ubiquitous Maria Luisa Poumaillou. Doo Ri's subtle draping, having recently garnered a CFDA award, attracted attention, as did Kim Jones' abstract take on sportswear, but in the end it was Bruno Pieters who stole the show, becoming the fourth Belgian in a row to secure the main prize. And indeed, Pieters' precisely tailored effort, all short 'n sharp skirts, sculpted tops, and slightly medieval hoods inspired by proto-conceptual painter Yves Klein, had all it takes to win the Stella Award: vision, substance, and an odd brand of commercial viability. "I'm really happy Bruno won, he is a great talent," said an enthusiastic Diane Pernet backstage, adding, "Don't ask me why, but last year, way before the designers were even nominated, I was sure he would be the next winner." The future now looks rosy for shy Bruno. A menswear line, to debut in January in Paris, is already in the pipeline (as reported in Issue 106). But that's just the start, so watch this space for more.
-Angelo Flaccavento

Photos:
Kim Jones s/s '07
Anne-Valerie Hash s/s '07
Doo.Ri s/s '07
Jonathan Saunders s/s '07
Bruno Pieters s/s '07