Stella Does Saris?

As the western world continues to adapt traditional eastern garbs into street wear (see: khaffiyas on St. Marks), western designers continue to expand their eastern empires, setting up shop in India, UAE and Russia. In fact, Stella McCartney recently announced that she'll open two stores in India by the end of 2008, with four more to follow.

The question is: Will McCartney emulate her former Gucci Group cohort Tom Ford and design traditional garments that cater to an Indian audience? For instance, clients at Villa Moda in Kuwait can order dishdasha robes, head scarves and abayas from Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander.

Unlike Russia or China, India operates an autonomous luxury sector that's entirely separate from western conglomerates such as LVMH or PPR (of which Gucci Group is a subsidiary). For centuries, the Indian upper class has been able to purchase traditional saris, cashmere scarves and kurtas from local manufacturers, distinguishing themselves from the lower classes with high-quality Indian textiles.

But with the quick rise of the Indian middle class in the last ten years, new demands for luxury have taken hold. Even if an Indian woman wears indigenous textiles, her desire for western accessories—considered status symbols the world over—has grown. In his message to investors on April 4, LVMH's Bernard Arnault commented on the importance of emerging markets like India in the continued expansion of the conglomerate.

According McCartney's camp, the brand will not develop a line specifically for the Indian audience. Instead, we suspect the designer will focus on two areas—veganism and accessories. The leather-free brand plans to tag team with PETA, who have recently ramped up their efforts to save endangered Bengali tigers through a local "Boycott the Circus" campaign. Stella McCartney may be one of the few fashion brands left that's better known for its silhouettes than its shoes and handbags, but it's accessories that can most easily bridge cultural barriers.

—Jessica Arthur