To Dye For

Crusading designer Hiroko Takahashi and her brand Hirocoledge are spearheading a movement to chic-ify the traditional Japanese kimono. Using big graphical patterns of polka dots, checkerboards and concentric circles splashed with vivid blocks of color, Takahashi's unorthodox take on the classic garment is altogether striking.

But while the patterns themselves are emphatically modern, the way in which the kimonos are produced is still as old-school as ever. The precocious Takahashi holds a doctorate in traditional dying techniques, and she insists on sticking to the time-tested katazome method, which dates from the Meiji Period (1868-1912). In katazome, a resist paste of bran and rice flour is applied to the fabric through a stencil, then, when dye is applied by hand afterwards, it doesn't penetrate the stenciled areas. The result is a bright white pattern thrown into relief against the richly-dyed silk or cotton fabric.

The emerging designer is hoping to reinvent an ancient tradition by melding her thoroughly contemporary patterns with time-honored dying techniques, and judging by the "sold out" tags in her online store, she's making inroads already. But if traditional garb just isn't your thing, Takahashi also translates her stunning geometric patterns into multi-purpose "furoshiki" fabric swaths and slouchy "sleeve bags."

www.shophirocoledge.com

—Misha Janette