Neu, Beneath, Le Shop Stockholm: The Stores of Sodermalm
May 6th, 2004 |
Our detective work took us first to the South of Folkungagatan in Sodermalm (SoFo is the name being touted for this working class neighborhood that contains an outbreak of trendy stores and restaurants, but the term hasn't quite stuck yet). At the edge of the Sodermalm, our first stop is Nakkna (Tjärhovsgatan 3), a tiny storefront working a rigid black, gray, and white color story for women and men's clothing. Claes Berkes, one-third of the trio behind the line Cracked Actor (his partners are Camilla Sundin and Ella Soccorsi), explained the label's second collection selling in the store as "clothes steeped in minimalist chaos, romantic draping, and juxtaposing fabric combinations." The store dresses edgier local celebrities and creative types who frequent Dance is the Message, Stockholm's hippest monthly party set in several rooms on the 6th floor of the Lydmar Hotel (Sturgegatan 10). Down the street from Nakkna at Neu (Nytorgsgatan 36), Nina Odelfalk's tastemaking brands include Preen accessories, Veronique Branquinho, Haider Ackerman and Christian Wijnants hanging next to Danish designer Baum und Pferdgarten and Swedish designers Blank, Louisa Burfitt (t-shirts), and Karin Wallmander (hats). Odelfalk is clearly one of the international players who understand the nuances of today's fashion forward designers and makes a loud statement in her tiny store as to how fashion will evolve in Stockholm.
Up the street, Le Shop Stockholm (Nytorgsgatan 23B) provides our first taste of streetwear, and the selection from owners Payman Dehdezi and Cecilia Steiner is impressive. Hanging from cascading chains attached to the ceiling (one of the only "design features" seen in the many stores visited — spare appears to be the Swedish store design philosophy to allow the clothes to speak for themselves) is a well-edited sporty mix from brands like Buddhist Punk, Taka-Naka, Yasue Carter, Nice Collective, Yoko Devereaux, Keanan Duffty, and Trovata. Scatter in Lara Bohnic and A.N.D. jewelry, and limited-edition Surface to Air t-shirts, and Le Shop Stockholm is as fine a steetwear store as you'd find anywhere in the world. Beneath (Skanegatan 70) opened last November (many stores in the city were born last fall) and is already attracting a stream of discerning brand seekers for exclusive Kim Jones for Umbro track suits, Zakee Shariff dresses, Pleasure Principle porno t-shirts, Perks and Mini caps, and Adam Lemmer leather pullovers. With Butt Magazine and throwback Vision trainers also for sale, Beneath is the kind of store you'll need to visit at least once a week for the shifting merchandise. Rounding off the neighborhood are Lisa Larssons (Bondegatan 48) and Antik for vintage clothes (just two of a handful of second hand shops in the area), Lollapalooza (Bondegatan 48) for Christopher Kon bags, Swear and Schmoove shoes, and Tjallamalla (Bondegatan 46) next door for a bohemian sportswear mix-up of Swedish brands including Adam Gauffin, Klara Stark, Saga design, Pace, and Hi my Swedish!. And with Savage London (Södermangatan 16,) for Gola trainers and Brixton printed sweatshirts, UniSoul (Katarinabangata 28) for Afrocentric t-shirts, and many other little storefronts for quirky Swedish goods, SoFo is sizing up as the NoLita or Shoreditch of Stockholm.
Photos: Nakkna
Adam Lemmer at Beneath
Le Shop Stockholm
Karin Wallmander hats at Neu
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