Menswear Underground

The current definition of modernity in men's clothing is a neverending conversation between fashion, music, and consumer culture. A cross-section of underground labels are synthesizing these divergent themes and casting a creative spell on the current landscape of menswear designs, mainly in the casual-luxe category.

Swedish designer Jesper Börjesson has launched a collection of hand-printed t-shirts and hoodies called Balaclava, which he calls "a symbol of hidden identity." Soon to graduate from Central Saint Martins, this former shoe designer is already gaining attention for his heady use of prints and sloganeering. The new collection of prints includes titles like "Scratch," "Knife," "Rip Cross," and "Slash." Inspired by minimalist artist Lucio Fontana, industrial geometry, and nihilism, Börjesson's clothing conjures themes of melancholy and emotional armor. Dark markings, indeed.

Los Angeles-based designer Jeff Sebelia's label, Cosa Nostra, is no stranger to a celebrity clientele. A favorite of Elton John, Christina Aguilera, and Winona Ryder, among many others, his moody, gothic looks are now capturing the attention of the fashion crowd. Sebelia had an odd entry into business: his father was a biker and young Sebelia grew up sewing patches onto his dad's worn clothes. Since forming his own label, his work has transformed from explorations in denim and leather into a full lifestyle label. His fall collection includes a series of tailored suits, leather outerwear, and signature jeans.

The Donner Party, the new label from New York artists Desi Santiago and Jeffrey Sfire, seeks to design "tragically American survival gear" for men. Inspired by the classic American tale of migration and survival, the Donner Party functions as "a vessel for the study of male archetypes." Drawing inspiration from the laborer, their collection of rugged thermals, t-shirts, hoodies, and hand-dyed cotton shirts use nostalgia and myth as details. The collection is primarily made of cotton, hand-dyed in murky tones or with tea-stained off-whites that create a solemn palette.

Another label peddling trendy tees is Parballe. This new t-shirt line from former models Max Zubari and Chris Collins is inspiring excitement even in the oversaturated universe of cool. French for "bulletproof," each Parballe t-shirt is shot at with live ammunition to create a three-dimensional look. These roguish boys have already shot to fame and can list celebrities like Johnny Depp, Lindsay Lohan, and Juliette Lewis as clients. However, a newly expanded line of printed t-shirts will enable them to have an even larger cult of followers.

Jas M.B., whose coveted, luxurious bags are in the wardrobes of the most deluxe of dandies, now offers a selection of limited-edition menswear to complement his impeccably crafted accessories. Rugged in feel but elegant in production and presentation, Jas M.B. has reached star status in Japan with his one-off bags for Louis Vuitton and his own ready-to-carry line, and his clothing line continues his "authentic and luxurious" aesthetic.

Consider yourselves dipped in the underground of some moody menswear brands.
-Waleed Khairzada

Photos:
Balaclava a/w '06-'07
Cosa Nostra
The Donner Party a/w '06-'07
Parballe
Jas M.B. a/w '06-'07