Shoe Bhömer

When you see one of Marloes ten Bhömer's creations for the first time, it may take a few seconds to realize that it's a shoe. But this probably wouldn't offend the designer—after all, rediscovery is what she's after. "I never let functionality get in the way of exploration," she says. "And the whole point of exploration is to discover shoes anew."

Ten Bhömer's work raises all sorts of questions about the shoe's purpose: as a form of protection, as a means of showcasing or concealing the foot, as a way of assisting (or encumbering) walking, and even as a beautiful, sculptural object in its own right. It makes you realize just how vital the shoe is, a fact that's always been clear to the Dutch designer. "Shoe design combines a full spectrum of concerns, from material knowledge to engineering to intuition," she explains. "Aside from my own design agenda, which seeks to ignore or criticize conventions in order to make the product world less generic, shoes need to be structurally sound. Making shoes in a non-conventional way and still making them technically accurate is a real challenge. I am also very drawn to the fact that by being very close to the body, shoes have a strong influence on the person wearing them, both physically and emotionally."

A product designer by training, perhaps the most notable aspect of ten Bhömer's work is its focus on technology and innovative materials. She honed her skills at London's Royal College of Art, from which she graduated in 2003 with an MA in Design Products. Computers and technology play a large role in her creative process, from the automated creation of molds to the actual cutting of shoe components from 3-D models. Ten Bhömer also uses some highly unconventional materials—shoes have been crafted from industrial-strength carbon fiber (yes, the kind that's used in race cars and airplanes), and the designer has invented a technique she calls "leather-mâché." Similar to the paper-and-glue crafting of our summer camp days, it involves laminating leather strips and molding them to the foot, removing the need for pattern development and allowing the outside of the shoe to take on its own free form.

Ten Bhömer's designs have caught the eye of arts organizations around the world as well as designers like Alexander McQueen, Boudicca and United Nude, all of which have worked with her on special exhibitions and projects. So far, it's mostly private collectors who have been privy to her world, but that's about to change as she prepares to launch her first special edition collection. Thanks to a grant from NESTA, ten Bhömer is adapting elements of her couture collection to create a technologically sound, wearable shoe that will be available to order via her new website. And it's not a process she's taking lightly. "All of the shoe's components are custom produced by partners ranging from industrial manufacturers in Asia to artisans in the UK and the Netherlands," she says. "I've managed all the technical development in consultation with some of the most skilled people in the footwear and design industry, from engineers to orthopedists to traditionally trained shoemakers."

Even so, it will probably be a while before we see her pieces on the shelves of Saks. "I would only be interested in creating a 'ready-to-wear' line if it could be informed by a non-conventional production technique that makes sense for the line," she says. "It would be interesting to see whether my aesthetic could be sustained within such a commercial framework." We've no doubt that if any designer is up to the challenge, Marloes ten Bhömer would be the one.

—Erin Magner