Branquinho, A Rare Belgian Breed

As one of our favorite silhouette-enhancing shirt makers, Veronique Branquinho's take on conceptual fashion is winning for its un-intimidating subtlety. Last night, in her a/w '08–'09 outing, Branquinho preached that "God is in the details", and her sharply-tailored pieces proved the point. The extra fabric jutting from the shoulder seams of a button-down shirt gave it a slight militaristic look, while a grey suit jacket was without collar—a deviation barely noticeable because of its meticulous linear construction. Throughout, crescent-shaped seams reinforced the strong shoulders of jackets and coats.

But the collection wasn't only about these understated elements. Branquinho comes from an Antwerpian design lineage, and the will to experiment with materials is in her blood. A combination of Lurex and plissé lace panels was used in wool skirts, green lace was layered over leather to matte its shiny surface, and a fine wool jacket was paired with faux-leather leggings.

Branquinho's unique balance of wearability with avant-garde sartorial trickery has, not surprisingly, garnered her notice from Antwerp's famed fashion museum, Momu. On March 12, Momu will launch a Branquinho retrospective to celebrate the 10-year anniversary of the label. If you're a Branquinho fanatic, now you've got a good reason to make a pilgrimage to the Benelux region.

—Robert Cordero