Fashion Incubator: Sophie Hulme

A lot can happen in nine months, especially if you're a designer. Take Sophie Hulme, the latest talent out of London, for example. Just last year, the North London native was studying fashion design at Kingston University, and starting this Fall her debut collection will be stocked at Selfridges, B-Store and Convenience in London—and we're guessing quite a few more soon.

"I have made things since I was tiny," says the designer, who now operates out of her studio in Islington. "I then had a huge interest in painting—specifically the human body—and it went from there." Hulme views her collection as an outlet not just to design clothes but to create great objects—like a sequined anorak or an army-inspired jacket adorned with shiny mini jets made of laser-cut Perspex. The military theme runs throughout her a/w '08 collection, which primarily focuses on outerwear, hats and bags (though silk dresses and other jersey pieces are on the docket for spring/summer '09). Other variations on the theme include a leather duffle bag with suede accents and a bomber jacket with a bow detail on the back.

"The way I design is not trend-led—I want to create things that are new and interesting but wearable and keepable, since I like the idea of collecting my clothes," says Hulme. Her clothes are definitely not basics, but rather key pieces, and each collectible also comes with a specific charm. "The trinkets will change each season so that after several seasons a dedicated customer will have an oversize charm necklace of trinkets. I've always collected charms and wanted to bring that story to my brand." The first season's icon is an Air Force bomber-styled whistle. But we don't think you'll need to use it to draw attention—this newcomer's vision is loud and clear.

—Meredith Fisher