A Rose By Any Other (Brand) Name

Independent designers are moving away from eponymous brand names. While labels such as Lagerfeld, Viktor & Rolf and Marc Jacobs use name appeal to help sell their garments, a newfound philosophy of brand recognition is shaking things up by showing that a little bit of attitude and creativity can sell the same wares.

Conference of Birds' Andrew Holden, for example, named his line after a medieval Persian poem about 30 birds on a search for an elusive bird who represents their collective selves. Holden's designs replicate this idea—elements come together to form a whole collection, season after season. He explains: "designers are getting interested in bringing more poetry to their labels. It's becoming less about ego. More and more, forward thinking designers are opting out of using their actual name." Holden is not alone—nor the first—in this approach. Wrath Arcane, Daydream Nation and Chronicles of Never are some of the other brands whose inspired titles speak for themselves. Literally taken, Wrath Arcane means "secret anger." This statement translates into Sean Bilovecky's ethically conscious clothing, which showcases models sporting eye-coverings with proclamations such as "Big Labels Are Fucked."

Keeping the designer identity independent from the identity of the line also generates a mystique and brand appeal any PR rep would crave. Consumers are investing in the idea behind the label, not the designer, giving many talents the freedom and chutzpah to explore their design philosophies. With a pull toward unorthodox names, this creative resurgence should be applauded. To each their own.

—Kyle Landman