The Real Deal Down Under - Part One

At Rosemount Australian Fashion Week s/s '09, Sydney established itself as the axis for fashion in the Asia-Pacific region. We surveyed an awesome lineup of labels from a variety of categories, and in this post-Oz series, we break down the designers that are causing a stir in this leading-edge beachside city. First, we review the veterans.

Easton Pearson and Akira Isogawa are the elder statesmen of the catwalk Down Under, and both showed stellar collections this season. Easton Pearson, from Pamela Easton and Lydia Pearson, celebrated their 20th anniversary with clothing that demonstrated their kinship with Euro designers like Dries Van Noten and Marni. The collection they called "Rainbow Coalition" was an homage to dresses, prints and painting. The models hit the runway in Chinese lanterns, tinted the room rose, and kept the audience riveted with breezy organza and satin dresses that were wonderfully modernized in contrasting prints. Tunics, sarongs and palazzo separates that were accessorized with heavily embroidered corset belting rounded out a story that stands as one of the duo's best to date.

However, the top prize of the week was well-earned by Akira Isogawa. Bringing attendees to tears is no small feat for any designer, and Isogawa dazzled with beautifully wrought clothes. Satin layering on dress necklines plumed into magnificent blooms, and his super-saturated color palette entranced the audience. Meanwhile, Isogawa's range of silhouettes was so varied that any woman could envision herself in the shapes. Read more about this tour de force in our straight-off-the-runway report from last week.

High marks went to Jayson Brunsdon for his focused showing of well-produced satin duchess dresses, many of which incorporated grosgrain belting and sequins in pretty cream colors. Alex Perry seems to garner all the glory as the go-to designer for frothy event wear, but we love the less-is-more chic and structured fluidity of Brunsdon's saleable, commercial clothes.

We also zeroed in on Yeojin Bae in the high-end arena. While Bae didn't show on the runway, this former Marc Jacobs intern got the message out on her tight collection of sculptural, fitted one-shoulder tops and column dresses that teetered on the line between glamour and practicality. With her winning personality and sample size shape, Bae's the perfect ambassador for her clothes—keep an eye on her.

We'll have more RAFW coverage in the next few days on establishment designers and the up-and-comers, so stay tuned.

—Jason Campbell