The last time the fashion world fancied Dr. Martens [4] grunge had seeped into the mainstream (thank you, Mr. Jacobs) and our economy was lagging. Today, things aren't much different. As colored jeans, cartoons and, of course, plaid flannel float to the surface, Docs are also re-emerging. In fact, it's almost as if the utilitarian footwear—created in 1945 by German Klaus Maertens as an alternative to the traditional army boot—sees a fashion renaissance any time there's talk of recession.

In fact, by the late '90s tech boom, Docs were on the sartorial back burner, and in 2003 the company closed their flagship location in London's Convent Garden. They also quit producing the shoe in the UK, moving manufacturing—like many other gently-priced brands—to Asia. (They still produce a limited-edition range in England, made to the same specifications and standards as the boots were in 1960 when the 1460 first rolled off the production line.)

Now, as economic woes drag us down yet again, Docs are looking more and more appropriate. Kimberly Barta, vice president of marketing for Dr. Martens, says that this time around, the shoe won't belong to one clan—such as the punks in the '70s or the grunge rockers of the '90s. Fashion today, more than ever, is democratic. "Tribes are not what they once were," says Barta. "There is no longer one or two or three dominant 'cultures' driving purchasing. The brand today belongs to many different groups."

Vive la différence.

—Jessica Arthur