After a stint at Thierry Mugler Homme, the Paris-based American designer Thomas Engel Hart [5] and his eponymous line are back. Entitled Disco Butoh, Hart's spring/summer '09 collection is a throwback to the glamorous 1970s rock scene. But while the collection toys with an androgynous aesthetic à la David Bowie, Hart's expert tailoring skills and penchant for experimentation give his menswear a thoroughly modern spirit.

There were strong-shouldered jackets, reminiscent of retro party-ready tuxedos, sleekly re-imagined in seersucker; sky-high-waisted loose fitting pants paired with feather boas; and spider-webbed knitwear crafted from lurex and linen worn underneath double-lapelled jackets with ankle-length pants. If Engel Hart keeps this up, we may have to pin our heart on his sleeve.

—Kyle Landman & Robert Cordero